14K Gold & Aquamarine Necklace circa 1910

Aquamarine is the birthstone for March and the traditional gift for 19th wedding anniversaries.

Aquamarine’s name is derived from the Latin for sea water. Ancient seafarers believed that the beautiful blue stone came from the treasure chests of the mermaids. Ancient peoples believed that the water in which an aquamarine was soaked would cure eye troubles and stop hiccups (never been proven by modern medicine). In medieval times, it was believed to reawaken love between married couples. Soldiers through the ages have called Aquamarine the “Stone of Courage” and believe that it guards against injury and makes them invincible.

Aquamarine belongs to the Beryl family of gemstones. Emeralds and Morganite are also included in the Beryl family. Beryl is comprised of beryllium-aluminum-silicate. Iron is the trace element that creates the lovely blue color in Aquamarine while chromium creates the green in emeralds and manganese gives Morganite its pink color. The beryl family generally originates in granitic pegmatites and found in alluvial deposits. The largest gem quality specimen on record is a 243 pound crystal found in 1910 in the Minas Gerais region of Brazil.

Aquamarine & Sterling Silver Neckalce by Konstantino

Properties

• Hardness: 7.5 – 8.0
• Color – Greenish blue through blue-green
• Stability
• Very good
• Rarities include cat’s-eye
• Clarity – majority is eye-clean
• Enhancements –
• Majority is heat treated to remove yellow and green overtones and is undetectable

Aquamarines are found in Brazil, Madagascar, Tanzania, Kenya, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, Burma, China, Australia, the Ural Mountains of Russia, Afghanistan, Pakistan and the USA.

Care

• Cleaning methods
• Ultrasonic – usually safe
• Steamer – usually safe
• Warm soapy water – safe

79 Ct Aquamarine in custom mounting by Beauchamp Jewelers

79 Ct Aquamarine in Custom Mounting by Beauchamp Jewelers

Our annual Alex Sepkus trunk show is coming up and we hope to see you there. Our trunk show is a special showing of the entire collection of 18kt Gold and Platinum jewelry by internationally known Designer Alex Sepkus. This is a wonderful opportunity to view a unique array of designs in pendants, rings, earrings, bracelets, bridal rings, bands and men’s jewelry. Alex Sepkus is a unique talent whose work is characterized by such fine detail and craftsmanship. One can only fully appreciate each piece with magnification to reveal the depth and intricacy of each design.

Wednesday Evening March 10th 5:30pm till 9pm
Light Hors D’oeuvres and Refreshments
Door Prizes

All day Thursday March 11th 9:30am till 5:30pm

You can preview Alex Sepkus’ stunning collections at www.bcjewelers.com

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First, an introduction. My name is Jordan and I am the watchmaker at Beauchamp Jewelers. I received a diploma in Watchmaking and Micromechanics from the Lititz Watch Technicum, a not-for-profit watchmaking school fully funded by Rolex in partnership with the Watchmakers Of Switzerland Training and Education Program. I am an American Watchmaker’s-Clockmaker’s Institute Certified Watchamker for the 21st Century.

One of the most common questions I hear from somebody who is new to the world of fine mechanical timepieces is “what are the jewels?” and “what do they do?” When someone thinks about jewels they may picture a beautiful ring like the one pictured here, or they might picture the Queen Mother draped in the crown jewels. In watches, however jewels are more of a functional item, rather than a thing of beauty.

A mechanical watch is in the simplest terms a series of gears driven by a spring with a mechanism which manages the unwinding of the spring at a controlled rate so that it can illustrate the time of day. Although the parts are small the relative forces inside a watch are pretty large. Each of these gears rotate on an axle which is supported in two parallel plates. In order to keep the holes in which these axles rotate from wearing out and getting larger the pivots on the end of the axles are usually supported in a donut shaped “jewel.”

Jewels, as bearing surfaces in watches have been in wide spread use since the middle of the 19th Century. Originally the were fashioned from natural stones such as diamond, ruby, sapphire, quartz, or garnet. Today, nearly all jewels in watches are made from synthetic ruby.

By the middle of the 20th Century Jewels had become a symbol of quality in watches, but there is much more to quality then simply the number of jewels in a watch. Vintage pocket watches were often sold in 7, 11, 15, 17, 19, 21, and 23 Jewel versions, but “dollar watches” usually had only 1 Jewel. With each increased jewel count the quality of the surrounding components usually increased as well. Today it is rare to find a watch with fewer than 17 Jewels. Most automatic wristwatches have at least 25 Jewels, and a chronograph might have up to 45 Jewels.

The jewels in your watch serve two very useful purposes. First, they make your watch more durable. A watch with no jewels will wear out in only a few years (even if serviced regularly) whereas a fully jeweled watch can run for generations if properly maintained. Second, they reduce friction, allowing the watch to run longer without winding, and allowing the watch to maintain for consistent time.

You can learn more about jewels in watches from Wikipedia. If you have questions for me, as a watchmaker related to jewels, or otherwise, feel free to comment on this post.

Cut – The forth “C”
In the 1200’s and prior diamonds were worn in their rough or natural octahedral shape because of the difficulty in cutting something so very hard. It wasn’t until 1375 in Germany where a guild of diamond cutters formed and developed the Point Cut. The point cut was an octahedron. Next came the Table cut in the mid 14th century. The table cut was a point cut diamond with some of the top cut off. By the end of the 14th century the single cut or 8/8 cut was introduced. The single cut was a table cut with the addition of four corner facets top and bottom. About the mid 16th century the Rose cut diamond was introduced. It had triangle facets arranged in a symmetrical radiating pattern with a flat bottom. The first brilliant cuts were known as Mazarins and were welcomed in the mid 17th century. They were cushion shape and had 17 facets on the crown as well as 17 facets below. Also in the 17th century came the Peruzzi cut. It has 58 facets like most modern round brilliant cut diamonds today. It had 33 facets on top and 25 below the girdle. Because bruting had not been developed yet all of these cutting styles had square or rectangular outlines. These were given a general name of cushions also known as Mine cuts. Bruting is the rounding of the diamonds girdle with a lathe. Sometime in the mid to late 18th century came the Old European Cut which also had 58 facets but a shallower pavilion, rounded outline and a different facet arrangement. The old European cut was the forerunner to our modern cut round brilliant cut diamond and was used throughout most of the 19th century. In 1919 Marcel Tolkowsky developed the model of today’s ideal cut diamond.

As you may remember from our last chat , Edwardian Jewelery is jewelery that was produced during the reign of King Edward VII of England. He held the throne from 1901-1915. One  often finds disparity in specific dates for the Edwardian era. Some scholars use the exact dates in which he ruled , others include the ten years prior to his coronation . Some insist that the era ends with the onset of WWI in 1914 but yet others state that it ended in 1915. As with any style there  always  seem to be an overlap . One does not see exact cut off dates.When dating jewelery I  find the term”circa ” very useful in that it allows for an approximation  of dates.

  The Edwardian era is often referred to as the garland style. It is exuberantly feminine.Ribbons, bows,  Garlands of roses and leaves drape the most quintessential examples of this  design style.

Edwardian Ring in Platinum and Diamonds

Notice the heart shape motiff  on the side of this ring . The ring  is exquisite in detail and very delicate in appearance.Platinum became the metal of choice  during the Edwardian era ,thanks to the advent of the oxyacetylene torch in 1900. Prior to this date jewelers did not have torches that could reach sufficient temperatures to work the metal.Platinum melts at approx.3300 F . Platinum properties being such that the most delicate models could  be executed without compromising the stability of the item being produced . The density of platinum allowed for unheard of detail and long wear .  The purity of the metals color combined with its’  durability provided the ideal setting medium for the jeweler.

Early 20th Century Platinum Diamond Ring

Notice the beaded border on the ring above. This millgraining is a technique that Edwardian jewelers often used .

 One also finds the use of yellow gold in Edwardian jewelery as well.This bangle bracelet exemplifies the delicate and feminine nature of this era

Edwardian Bangle Bracelet with Sapphires

For more lovely examples of jewelery from this era check out our website at www.bcjewelers.com I could go on and on about the beautiful jewelery from this time period look for more on my next blog and happy hunting for your next antique or vintage piece.

I’m sure you have started thinking about doing some holiday shopping by now. To help you with your holiday shopping we have a few things to tell you about.

First, if you could use a little extra cash we are having a special Gold Buying Event on Sunday, December 6 from Noon to 5pm. Recycle your broken, or old jewelry or watches and get some quick cash to help with your holiday shopping. Gold prices are the highest they have ever been. We will be open for holiday shopping that day as well.

From now through Christmas Beauchamp Jewelers will be open every day of the week! We will be open Sunday December 6, 13, & 20 from Noon to 5pm for holiday shopping. If you can’t get in to see us during the week we’ve added one more day to help you out.

As always, we will write down a wish list of items you are interested in so you can give it to someone who may be looking for just the right gift for you, or we can keep it here in the store and you can let them know that the friendly staff at Beauchamp’s knows just what you want.

Don’t know where to hide that special item you purchased? We’re happy to keep your Beauchamp purchases in our vault until right before Christmas so you don’t have to worry about her finding that special gift.

 The Edwardian Era is  named after the British Monarch Edward the VII . (See Left ) Although his reign was quite short (1901-1910) he and his Queen,  Alexandra were quite influencial.

The couple were married in 1863 but Edward did not assend to the throne until after his Mothers death in 1901. His Mother, Queen Victoria ruled England from1837 untill 1901.

Queen Victoria

Victoria spent much of her public life in mourning for her late husband . As Victorian propriety demanded she dressed accordingly. Ladies in mourning were restricted to wearing black , grey or shades of greyish purple (the  color being tied into specific periods)                                        The accompanying  jewels worn were often in similar tones of  blacks  and purples. Jewelry was generally quite massive in appearance.

 Victoria still held sway even toward the later part of  her  reign but as she aged , Edward and Alexandria undertook many of Queen Victorias Public duties. The couple was very visible in society and had a great effect on the fashion of the day.

 Alexandra was charming , beautiful and stylish. Ladies strove to immitate her style . Notice the chocker or “dog collar” style necklace that she is wearing .(see image below) This look was created by her to disguise a small scar on her neck and the style became all the rage . The “dog collar ” style is still  popular with designers today.

Alexandra

  Edward and Alexandra were young and influencial during a period of great prosperity for the upper classes. It was a period of  political stability a well as an era of exciting new technological discovery. Gas lighting was replaced by the invention of electrical lighting.

    Colors became more  subtle in the ladies wardrobe. Jewelers enhanced the dress of the day by creating lighter, airy designs and utilizing pastel gemstones such as aquamarine, Montana sapphires and seed pearls. Jewels did  not require mass or intensity of color to have an effect under the new electric light . Diamonds twinkled under the new lights. Seed pearls were very popular as evidenced  in the following .

Edwardian Seed Pearl Brooch

Notice the delicate quality to the work in this Edwardian seed pearl brooch.

Edwardian Chocker c.1910

 Today it is difficult to imagine how an individuals could so inflence their times to such an extent as to have their name applied to an era . Just mention the Edwardian age and it conjures images of lively times, beautiful clothes and the exquisite ‘Garland style of Jewelery” we now define as Edwardian. Please look for my next blog on the Jewels of the Edwardian Era.

We recently celebrated our second year in our new Albuquerque location and 58 years since our founding by Mac and Ione Beauchamp in 1951. We want to take this opportunity to thank all of our valued customers. Thank you for your loyal patronage. Our annual anniversary party is one way we say Thank you. The party was a huge success, with our second show room decorated in an under the sea theme, there was good food, good fun, great friends, and of course, beautiful jewelry.

Many of you enjoyed trying on our newest collection, Vianna. Please let us know what you think about Vianna, our Event, or any of our other designer lines. You can comment on this post, or send us an e-mail.

Topaz is the Birthstone for November and the 4th and 23rd wedding anniversary stone.

The Egyptians said that topaz was colored with the golden glow of the mighty sun god Ra. The Romans associated topaz with Jupiter, who also is the god of the sun. Legend says that it dispels all enchantment and helps to improve eyesight. The Greeks believed that it had the power to increase strength and make the wearer invisible. Topaz was also said to change color in the presence of poisoned food or drink and curative powers waxed and waned with the phases of the moon. It was said to cure insomnia, asthma and hemorrhages. The name comes from the same island that Peridot originally came from – Topazios or Zabarad in the Red Sea. In Sanskrit, the word topas or tapax means fire. In medieval times nobility and ruling classes were given engraved topaz as a token of loyalty and friendship.

The name for Imperial Topaz originated in nineteenth century Russian because the Ural Mountains were the leading source. Ownership of the gem was restricted to the royal family.

Today most people think of blue when they think of topaz and yellow topaz is often mistaken for the common citrine or smoky quartz.

American Golden

The most famous topaz is a giant stone set in the Portuguese Crown called the Braganza. The Smithsonian has many large specimens including the biggest faceted gem (by weight) ever recorded known as the “American Golden” It weighs 22,982 carats or 10.14 pounds.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/63894475@N00/ / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Topaz is the state gemstone of Texas and Utah.

Source

The Ouro Preto area of Brazil is the major commercial source of imperial and red topaz. The Ghundao Hill area of Pakistan produces a naturally pink to red topaz sometimes called “cyclamen pink”. Brazil and Sri Lanka are the most significant sources of treatable colorless topaz. Topaz comes from Australia, Madagascar, Mexico, Myanmar, Namibia, Nigeria and the USA as well. The primary source of gem-quality topaz are pegmatites. Because it grows in an orthorhombic crystal structure (crystals are typically elongated with strong parallel grooves or striations, parallel to their length) it has weaker bonds between the atoms in one direction which causes cleavage. A sharp blow or extreme pressure or sharp temperature changes might cause it to split along the cleavage plane.

Properties

• Toughness – poor due to cleavage
• Stability
• Reaction to Heat – might cause fading.
• Reaction to Light – might cause fading.
• Reaction to Chemicals – not resistant to sulphuric acid.
• Care during polishing and setting because of danger of cleavage
• Rarities include Red, Pink and Imperial or Precious Topaz
• Most popular cuts are emerald or step cut, scissor cut, cabochon and brilliant cut particularly for colorless Topaz.
• Confused with Apatite, aquamarine, brazilianite, chrysoberyl, citrine, danburite, diamond, fluorite, kunzite, orthoclase, phenakite, ruby, sapphire, spinel, tourmaline, zircon and precious beryl. Blue synethetic topaz is known. Yellow heat-treated amethyst are falsely called “gold topaz” or “Madeira topaz” so real topaz is sometimes called precious topaz to distinguish them.
• Enhancements –
• Blue Topaz – depending on type of treatment and starting material, it comes in many shades of blue.



• London Blue
• Swiss Blue
• Super blue
• Maxi Blue
• Sky Blue
• Blue starts usually as colorless and treated with gamma rays or high-energy electron radiation. This is permanent. The stones must be quarantined from three months to a year to allow radiation to dissipate.
• Heat treatment is usually used on yellow to create pink and red hues. This is also permanent.
• Surface Diffusion – stones are heated in cobalt-rich powder which produces color about 0.5mm deep at the surface.
• Coating – coating colorless topaz with microscopic layer of metallic oxide compound by heating the stone in a vacuum-sealed container with metal oxides to form a vapor coating. This causes an optical effect of visible spectral hues. The coating is not durable but can resist daily wear but abrasive cleaners and buffing wheels remove it. It is safe in ultrasonic, alcohol and mild soap.

Synthetics – glass, synthetic spinel, flame fusion, flux, hydrothermal, Czocharalski-pulled, doublets

Care

• Cleaning methods
• Ultrasonic – avoid
• Steamer – avoid
• Warm soapy water – safe
• Pickling Solution – see above in Reaction to Chemicals