As you may remember from our last chat , Edwardian Jewelery is jewelery that was produced during the reign of King Edward VII of England. He held the throne from 1901-1915. One  often finds disparity in specific dates for the Edwardian era. Some scholars use the exact dates in which he ruled , others include the ten years prior to his coronation . Some insist that the era ends with the onset of WWI in 1914 but yet others state that it ended in 1915. As with any style there  always  seem to be an overlap . One does not see exact cut off dates.When dating jewelery I  find the term”circa ” very useful in that it allows for an approximation  of dates.

  The Edwardian era is often referred to as the garland style. It is exuberantly feminine.Ribbons, bows,  Garlands of roses and leaves drape the most quintessential examples of this  design style.

Edwardian Ring in Platinum and Diamonds

Notice the heart shape motiff  on the side of this ring . The ring  is exquisite in detail and very delicate in appearance.Platinum became the metal of choice  during the Edwardian era ,thanks to the advent of the oxyacetylene torch in 1900. Prior to this date jewelers did not have torches that could reach sufficient temperatures to work the metal.Platinum melts at approx.3300 F . Platinum properties being such that the most delicate models could  be executed without compromising the stability of the item being produced . The density of platinum allowed for unheard of detail and long wear .  The purity of the metals color combined with its’  durability provided the ideal setting medium for the jeweler.

Early 20th Century Platinum Diamond Ring

Notice the beaded border on the ring above. This millgraining is a technique that Edwardian jewelers often used .

 One also finds the use of yellow gold in Edwardian jewelery as well.This bangle bracelet exemplifies the delicate and feminine nature of this era

Edwardian Bangle Bracelet with Sapphires

For more lovely examples of jewelery from this era check out our website at www.bcjewelers.com I could go on and on about the beautiful jewelery from this time period look for more on my next blog and happy hunting for your next antique or vintage piece.

I’m sure you have started thinking about doing some holiday shopping by now. To help you with your holiday shopping we have a few things to tell you about.

First, if you could use a little extra cash we are having a special Gold Buying Event on Sunday, December 6 from Noon to 5pm. Recycle your broken, or old jewelry or watches and get some quick cash to help with your holiday shopping. Gold prices are the highest they have ever been. We will be open for holiday shopping that day as well.

From now through Christmas Beauchamp Jewelers will be open every day of the week! We will be open Sunday December 6, 13, & 20 from Noon to 5pm for holiday shopping. If you can’t get in to see us during the week we’ve added one more day to help you out.

As always, we will write down a wish list of items you are interested in so you can give it to someone who may be looking for just the right gift for you, or we can keep it here in the store and you can let them know that the friendly staff at Beauchamp’s knows just what you want.

Don’t know where to hide that special item you purchased? We’re happy to keep your Beauchamp purchases in our vault until right before Christmas so you don’t have to worry about her finding that special gift.

 The Edwardian Era is  named after the British Monarch Edward the VII . (See Left ) Although his reign was quite short (1901-1910) he and his Queen,  Alexandra were quite influencial.

The couple were married in 1863 but Edward did not assend to the throne until after his Mothers death in 1901. His Mother, Queen Victoria ruled England from1837 untill 1901.

Queen Victoria

Victoria spent much of her public life in mourning for her late husband . As Victorian propriety demanded she dressed accordingly. Ladies in mourning were restricted to wearing black , grey or shades of greyish purple (the  color being tied into specific periods)                                        The accompanying  jewels worn were often in similar tones of  blacks  and purples. Jewelry was generally quite massive in appearance.

 Victoria still held sway even toward the later part of  her  reign but as she aged , Edward and Alexandria undertook many of Queen Victorias Public duties. The couple was very visible in society and had a great effect on the fashion of the day.

 Alexandra was charming , beautiful and stylish. Ladies strove to immitate her style . Notice the chocker or “dog collar” style necklace that she is wearing .(see image below) This look was created by her to disguise a small scar on her neck and the style became all the rage . The “dog collar ” style is still  popular with designers today.

Alexandra

  Edward and Alexandra were young and influencial during a period of great prosperity for the upper classes. It was a period of  political stability a well as an era of exciting new technological discovery. Gas lighting was replaced by the invention of electrical lighting.

    Colors became more  subtle in the ladies wardrobe. Jewelers enhanced the dress of the day by creating lighter, airy designs and utilizing pastel gemstones such as aquamarine, Montana sapphires and seed pearls. Jewels did  not require mass or intensity of color to have an effect under the new electric light . Diamonds twinkled under the new lights. Seed pearls were very popular as evidenced  in the following .

Edwardian Seed Pearl Brooch

Notice the delicate quality to the work in this Edwardian seed pearl brooch.

Edwardian Chocker c.1910

 Today it is difficult to imagine how an individuals could so inflence their times to such an extent as to have their name applied to an era . Just mention the Edwardian age and it conjures images of lively times, beautiful clothes and the exquisite ‘Garland style of Jewelery” we now define as Edwardian. Please look for my next blog on the Jewels of the Edwardian Era.

Topaz is the Birthstone for November and the 4th and 23rd wedding anniversary stone.

The Egyptians said that topaz was colored with the golden glow of the mighty sun god Ra. The Romans associated topaz with Jupiter, who also is the god of the sun. Legend says that it dispels all enchantment and helps to improve eyesight. The Greeks believed that it had the power to increase strength and make the wearer invisible. Topaz was also said to change color in the presence of poisoned food or drink and curative powers waxed and waned with the phases of the moon. It was said to cure insomnia, asthma and hemorrhages. The name comes from the same island that Peridot originally came from – Topazios or Zabarad in the Red Sea. In Sanskrit, the word topas or tapax means fire. In medieval times nobility and ruling classes were given engraved topaz as a token of loyalty and friendship.

The name for Imperial Topaz originated in nineteenth century Russian because the Ural Mountains were the leading source. Ownership of the gem was restricted to the royal family.

Today most people think of blue when they think of topaz and yellow topaz is often mistaken for the common citrine or smoky quartz.

American Golden

The most famous topaz is a giant stone set in the Portuguese Crown called the Braganza. The Smithsonian has many large specimens including the biggest faceted gem (by weight) ever recorded known as the “American Golden” It weighs 22,982 carats or 10.14 pounds.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/63894475@N00/ / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Topaz is the state gemstone of Texas and Utah.

Source

The Ouro Preto area of Brazil is the major commercial source of imperial and red topaz. The Ghundao Hill area of Pakistan produces a naturally pink to red topaz sometimes called “cyclamen pink”. Brazil and Sri Lanka are the most significant sources of treatable colorless topaz. Topaz comes from Australia, Madagascar, Mexico, Myanmar, Namibia, Nigeria and the USA as well. The primary source of gem-quality topaz are pegmatites. Because it grows in an orthorhombic crystal structure (crystals are typically elongated with strong parallel grooves or striations, parallel to their length) it has weaker bonds between the atoms in one direction which causes cleavage. A sharp blow or extreme pressure or sharp temperature changes might cause it to split along the cleavage plane.

Properties

• Toughness – poor due to cleavage
• Stability
• Reaction to Heat – might cause fading.
• Reaction to Light – might cause fading.
• Reaction to Chemicals – not resistant to sulphuric acid.
• Care during polishing and setting because of danger of cleavage
• Rarities include Red, Pink and Imperial or Precious Topaz
• Most popular cuts are emerald or step cut, scissor cut, cabochon and brilliant cut particularly for colorless Topaz.
• Confused with Apatite, aquamarine, brazilianite, chrysoberyl, citrine, danburite, diamond, fluorite, kunzite, orthoclase, phenakite, ruby, sapphire, spinel, tourmaline, zircon and precious beryl. Blue synethetic topaz is known. Yellow heat-treated amethyst are falsely called “gold topaz” or “Madeira topaz” so real topaz is sometimes called precious topaz to distinguish them.
• Enhancements –
• Blue Topaz – depending on type of treatment and starting material, it comes in many shades of blue.



• London Blue
• Swiss Blue
• Super blue
• Maxi Blue
• Sky Blue
• Blue starts usually as colorless and treated with gamma rays or high-energy electron radiation. This is permanent. The stones must be quarantined from three months to a year to allow radiation to dissipate.
• Heat treatment is usually used on yellow to create pink and red hues. This is also permanent.
• Surface Diffusion – stones are heated in cobalt-rich powder which produces color about 0.5mm deep at the surface.
• Coating – coating colorless topaz with microscopic layer of metallic oxide compound by heating the stone in a vacuum-sealed container with metal oxides to form a vapor coating. This causes an optical effect of visible spectral hues. The coating is not durable but can resist daily wear but abrasive cleaners and buffing wheels remove it. It is safe in ultrasonic, alcohol and mild soap.

Synthetics – glass, synthetic spinel, flame fusion, flux, hydrothermal, Czocharalski-pulled, doublets

Care

• Cleaning methods
• Ultrasonic – avoid
• Steamer – avoid
• Warm soapy water – safe
• Pickling Solution – see above in Reaction to Chemicals

I just adore bracelets much as the ladies did in the 1800’s. It was not uncommon for a lady to wear multiple bracelets on each arm. The Victorian metal of choice was gold. Slide style bracelets were popular and often worn in pairs.

Victorian Slide Bracelet

Slide Bracelets were adjustable so as to accommodate most any size wrist. One would slip the section of chain over the wrist and adjust it by sliding the tasseled end away from the wrist.

Mid 19th century bracelets tend to have a bold look. The bold  look of the jewels  balanced the large voluminous skirts that were in  fashion. Although Victorian jewelery looks bold it is not heavy. It has a light weight feel .Gold was rare. Jewelers utilized a variety of methods to work the thin sheets of this precious metal so as the finished jewels would have an important look. Although gold was discovered in California in 1849  it was not untill1874 that it was discovered in the Black Hills  and than as late as 1898 in Alaska.  

Later Victorian bracelets begin to take on a lighter more delicate look. The metal is pierced and visually light. Styles change as does jewelery design to enhance the newest fashions.

Antique Pierced sapphire and Diamond Bangle

 An era was ending and a new one was beginning.

Turn of the century bracelet

Victorian Woven Mesh Bracelet Victorian bracelets from the 1800s are great fun to collect and wear. You do not often see exact copies of items unless they were originally made to be worn as pairs.

If you like to wear unique and usual jewelery, Victorian bracelets are for you!  Happy collecting  !

I heard a fabulous interview on NPR today with Madeleine Albright about her book Read My Pins. While she was Secretary of State she would wear lapel pins to all of her meetings with Heads of State and they often reflected her mood or made political statements. You can see a slideshow of some of the pins she wore and read an excerpt from her book at NPR.org.

If you would like to wear your emotions on your lapel you can check out some of the beautiful vintage pins at our web page, www.bcjewelers.com.

Victorian Earrings, that is earrings made during the time period that Queen Victoria of England ruled are rare. During  the early period of  her reign  (1840-60) earrings were  considered very unfashionable. The Fashion of the times  dictated that a lady cover her ears so as not to appear to unduly forward.

By the mid 19th Century earrings were once again fashionable. Earrings were appropriate  for day, as well as evening. They were bold and made from a variety of materials. The  earrings below are crafted of tortoise shell and 14kt gold.

Victorian earring in original condition are pierced. It is not until the turn of the 19th Century that we find non pierced earrings.

 The creation of non pierced earring backs must have created quite a sensation. I imagine that the new invention was embraced by the fashion forward woman of the day.The piercing  of ones ears in the early 20th Century gradually fell from fashion.In the United States  it was not an uncommon perception that only gypsies and women of questionable virtue pierced their ears. 

One rarely finds similar pairs of Victorian Earrings. They are a fun item of antique jewelry to hunt for and what collector doesn’t enjoy the hunt!  Happy collecting! If you are looking for something specific, we can help you at Beauchamp Jewelers.

If you love Antique jewelery (Jewelry that is at least 100 years old) You may have been lucky enough to come across a quintessential  piece of Victorian jewelery known as Micro Mosaic jewelery. (see figure 1 ) Pieces such as this lovely locket were all the rage, especially  for those that traveled abroad.  Italian artisans created these mosaics and they were purchased by tourists as souvenirs of their tours.  The images were created using small pieces of  cut glass known as tesserae.  The tiny sections of glass were painstakingly assembled to create beautiful images.  Jewelers would than  set these small mosaics into  jewelery.

Earlier examples of mosaic jewelry often depict images of Roman ruins and architectural motifs.  Later 19th Centuary mosaics tend toward  more  romatic images such as flowers.

The quality of workmanship in creating the mosaics as well as setting them in jewelry varies. Artist such Castellani were masters of this type of work. His creations were sought after in his day. Today a signed Castellani piece can fetch a handsome price. Compare the Mosaic work on figures 1 and 2 to that of  number 3.

Notice how much smaller the tesserae is cut in figures 1 and 2. Although the locket ( figure 3 ) is lovely, it is not nearly as fine as in the previous examples.

Fine quality Micro Mosaic work in is not commonly found.  It is always such a pleasure to find quality pieces in really good condition, especially when you think that this work was created by artists well over one hundred years ago. For those of you that are addicted to collecting, Micro Mosaic jewelry is not only beautiful but wearable art and it speaks so eloquently of a gentler time. Happy Collecting to you!

All three items pictured above are available at Beauchamp Jewelers along with many other pieces of antique jewelry from the Victorian Period, and other Eras as well.